Tips & Useful Technical Information
Carrying Bikes when A'vanning:
A bike and an A'van seem to go together like a
"Horse & Carriage" (or is that Love & Marriage), but how to
carry the bikes when towing brings up a number of options. A bike rack fixed to the back of the tow vehicle
is popular but there can be issues depending on how the back door
opens, tow vehicle numberplate visibility, the location of any trailer stabilising
bars etc.
Some A'vanners lash their bikes to the front of
the A'van such as in this ingenuous arrangement:
Others have been known to secure a bike to the
spare wheel post at the rear of the A'van. This approach however
might not always be satisfactory on account of the spare wheel post proving to
not be structurally adequate to support
the additional weight of the bike, particularly on dirt roads. On arriving
at their destination, this unfortunate A'vanner discovered the bike, spare wheel and support post were all missing.
Fortunately, on retracing his steps the offending items were located:
Started the journey lashed to the spare wheel post!
Some A'vanners carry their bikes on fixtures on
the tow vehicle roof rails . We are not too keen on this idea
as not only do the bikes look precarious balanced on the tow vehicle roof, but
they are out in all the weather.
After much thought we concluded that if we wanted to take the bikes with us,
then they had to be accommodated inside the tow
vehicle (initially, a 1999 Subaru Forester). The following
photographs show how we achieved this. It
kept them safe, clean and secure , and as the "tiedowns" where always
in place, it only took a minute or so to put
them in or take them out .
Essential requirements for this approach is that there is sufficient height to accommodate the upright bikes after
removing the front wheels, that the vehicle rear seat backs can be easily hinged forward , and that you do not need the rear seats for passengers .
It is also preferable that the bike(s) have quick release front
wheels.
Since fitting out the Forester with the tiedowns, we have had over ten years of trouble free A'vanning
with our bikes carried in this manner. The "quick release" wheel axles fitted to the support plank
were purchased from the nearest bicycle shop.
Two bikes in a Subaru Forester
Front axle support plank
Quick release wheel axle fitted to support plank
Support plank end tiedown arrangement
Close-up of tiedown before tensioning with the conduit
Plank tiedown after tensioning with conduit
Front axle support plank, tied down and tensioned
Bike rear tiedown
Rear tiedown and tensioning detail
Tyre Manufacture Date Codes:
(We are indebted to "Real Classic"
motorcycle magazine for providing the basis for the following information)
Like the rest of us, tyres deteriorate with
age. Manufacturers and (some) suppliers suggest tyres should be
scrapped if they are greater than six to seven
years old... irrespective of how much tread wear is evident.
Apparently tyres age in different ways. Heat, pressure, friction and
exposure to ultra violet light all contributes to the ageing with the result
that the tyre doesn't really stop vulcanising. The cumulative effect is
to make the tyre stiffer and more
brittle.
Fortunately, most if not all, tyres have
"DOT" (Department of Transport) information embossed on one or both
sides of the tyre wall. This information consists of a collection of codes
peculiar to that particular tyre with the last
three or four digits indicating the week and year of manufacture.
They are normally in a small "jelly bean" shaped
oval, separate from the other codes as they have to be changed each
week of manufacture:
For the four number sequence (made in the 21st century), the first two digits indicate the week of manufacture and the
last two the year of manufacture.
A tyre having a three sequence number (made in the 20th century) e.g. 039 indicates the date of manufacture as the
third week in 1999. But nobody
would be using tyres that old would they?
Apparently, according to the DOT standard, tyres should not be sold once they are
a certain age (between two and three years) and should be scrapped, irrespective
of use, after six years .
Something to keep in mind when considering buying NOS (New Old Stock ) tyres at a Swap Meet!
Manoeuvring an A'van in a Confined Space:
An attractive feature of an A'van camper
trailer is that in most situations, when not attached to the tow
vehicle, it can be manhandled on a site
to (say) take best advantage of a view. Where space is restricted however
such as in a garage and you might need to move it
sideways, that is a bit more difficult.
We are indebted to Peter Corby for
drawing our attention to the "Go
Jack ", and the following description of how he uses a couple of them
to place his A'van just where he wants:
"As I enter my property from a reasonably busy street and up to an elevated garage
they suit my purpose, as I can drive through my double garage, unhook, rotate the
van with the jacks and then push the van to the side etc."
Single Go Jack
Go Jack Positioned Under an A'van Wheel
As can be seen from the photograph above, the Go
Jack has four heavy duty swivelling wheels, two of which are on the
extremities of the two (blue) arms. The arms can be moved apart sufficiently
to allow them to straddle the van's tyres as shown. Operating the foot lever of the integral jack brings the two
arms together, firstly to where they touch the tyre, and then as they get closer,
they gradually lift the wheel clear of the
ground. In conjunction with the
jockey wheel, having a Go Jack on each of the A'van's wheels allows
it to be easily pushed around to wherever required. The Go Jacks do require
a smooth, firm and reasonably level
surface however.
Full details of the various Go Jacks
available are shown on the website www.gotools.com.au which includes a short video demonstrating how they are used. It is
claimed that each jack can support 680 Kg
which should be more than adequate for the full range of A'van camper trailers.
Quoted prices (June 2010) for versions suitable for A'vans are (AUS)$199 each for one, (AUS)$340 for two, or (AUS)$580
for four, all plus freight.
In Case of Emergency:
We all have our mobile phones, but this tip passed on by Ken McCloskey (2607) could really save your life, or put a
loved one's mind at rest.
Message from NSW Ambulance Service
We all carry our mobile phones with names & numbers stored in its memory,
but if we were to be involved in an accident or were taken ill, the people
attending us wouldn't know who to call.
Yes, there are hundreds of numbers stored but which one is the contact person in case of an emergency?
Hence this "ICE" (In Case of Emergency)
Campaign. The concept of "ICE" is catching on quickly. It is a
method of contact during emergency
situations. As mobile phones are carried by the majority of
the population, all you need to do is store the
number of a contact person or persons who should be contacted during
emergency under the name "ICE" (In
Case Of Emergency).
This idea was thought up by a paramedic
who found that when he went to the scenes of accidents, there were always mobile
phones with patients, but they didn't know which
number to call. He therefore thought that it would be a good
idea if there was a nationally recognized
name for this purpose. In an emergency situation, Emergency
Service personnel and hospital staff would be able to quickly contact the right person by simply dialling the
number you have stored as "ICE".
For more than one contact name simply enter ICE1, ICE2 and
ICE3 etc.
RepellANT:
Troubled by pesky ants running around
your pristine kitchen area? Nellie
Romer (2617) advises talcum
powder sprinkled around the wheels, stabilisers, jockey wheel, power
cable and water hose fixes the problem. Apparently the powder gums up
their little feet so they go elsewhere. Cheap powder is just as effective
as the most expensive.
Watch where you walk:
Visiting van parks boasting wondering "cute and
cuddly wildlife"? Have a grass rake in the A'van locker.
Tried and tested at many club gatherings (kangaroos, possums, ducks... ), the
rake is always in great demand!
Takes a bit longer, but... :
Prefer not to have wet towels hanging
around? Pam Thomas (2900)
suggests you use instead a face cloth'
to dry yourself after showering. They absorb a lot of water and are
easily rung-out when saturated. Guaranteed to get you at least 95% dry and
the face cloth itself dries quickly on the van
towel rail.
Flapping lockers:
If your A'van locker doors hinge along the
bottom (many of them do), ensure the screw holding the inside tab to
the door lock is kept tight.
If this vibrates loose, the door will fall open resulting in your treasures'
being scattered along the highway.
Some Threadlocker' (eg Loctite
243) on the screw thread would provide added insurance.
ABC Radio station finder:
Do you arrive at your intended destination then have to spend valuable minutes (or even hours) searching on the van radio
for your favourite ABC local, national, classic
fm or (God forbid) triple J station? Invest in the credit card
size ABC Travellers' Guide ($1 from
ABC shops & centres) which lists those stations for locations throughout
Australia. Pre-tune the radio before
leaving home to save even further holidaying time!
Dry locker:
For a quicker getaway, join the two ends
of your water hose with a hose-lock
joiner. This prevents water
draining out from the hose in the locker and retains the hose in a
neat coil.
Drip...drip... drip:
Wherever two or more A'vanners gather together, you can guarantee sooner or later,
the subject of condensation comes up.
Condensation usually occurs at sun up after a very cold night, particularly
in humid conditions. Moisture in the air, usually from our breath,
condenses on most metal surfaces and can cause all sorts of problems as water
droplets fall off the roof or, even worse, soak into the wall and floor
surfaces. Experiences vary from "no
problem whatsoever" to horror stories of ruined books and a saturated
video recorder.
A'van Campers suggest leaving open windows and/or
the roof vents, but in our experience the effect on reducing
condensation is marginal. Other solutions vary from "sticking masking tape on all the metal surfaces" (Jim
Wright, 2560), to holidaying in Mudgee
mid-winter, when the condensation promptly freezes on the metalwork
- you can scratch your name in the frost but no drips (not for a while anyway)!
A novel approach has been suggested by Les Walsh
(2448):
The perennial "condensation" problem - solved in
one with a product called
Damp-Rid, available in Coles and (probably) most large supermarkets.
Comes in a box like a milk carton. I've made a small version of
the original container, utilising a small bowl which fits neatly into the top
of a screw-top plastic jar (holes in the bottom of the bowl of course).
When stationary, open the cap and the crystals in the bowl absorb extraneous
water, depositing it in the bottom of the jar. Screw cap on for travelling
(after emptying water from jar). Replace crystals as necessary.
Broadband Wireless Internet When Travelling:
It has never been easier or more convenient to connect to the Internet when travelling. No more
having to search out "hot spots", Internet cafes or the public library.
Now with a simple USB modem plugged
into your computer, it can all be done from the convenience of your A'van.
With most of the telcos now having 3G (third
generation) mobile phone networks offering typical data speed rates
of at least an order (ten times) greater than available via even the best dial-up
connections, impatiently tapping your fingers on the table as you wait for images
to download can be a thing of the past.
Telstra Next G USB Wireless Modem
The Telstra Pre-Paid Wireless Broadband package best suits our
needs. Currently (Jan 2010), the download
plus upload data allowance is miserly compared to that offered by the
other telcos for the same price, but the coverage outside capital cities and the
larger regional towns is vastly superior
on the Telstra Next G network.
There seems little point in having a cheaper service if, in the areas you are
travelling through, it operates at dial-up rates
or, worse, there is no service at all.
Having purchased our
Telstra Pre-Paid Wireless Broadband package from a Telstra
dealer, it was then just a matter of following the Getting Started Guide and we were connected to the Internet
within a few minutes. In summary, this involved phoning a Telstra number
to activate the SIM card in the modem,
turn on the computer, and after it
has booted up, plug the modem into a spare USB
port. The new hardware is automatically detected and it is
then just a matter of following the instructions on the screen. This
experience was one of the few occasions when a new computer product has worked
for us "out of the box" just as we
had hoped!
The package cost AUS$99 (Jan 2010)
which includes AUS$10 data credit to get started.
Recharging the credit is done over the internet (fee free), and the
credit expires 30 days from
re-charging. If you re-charge within the expiry period,
unused credit is rolled over into the
next 30 days.
Broadband Wireless Internet Connection in the A'van
After four months use, both at home and when travelling, we find that AUS$20 (225 MB, May 2010) every 30 days
provides us with considerably more data (download and upload) than we normally
use, including maintaining this website. In short, we now have a
relatively high speed broadband Internet service for less than we paid previously for the connection calls cost
alone of our dial-up account. Being able to use it anywhere that we have
our notebook computer is icing on the cake!
Incidentally, this scheme does not require your
having an ISP. If you open one of the free email accounts
(Gmail, Hotmail etc.), you can dispense with your current ISP, giving you a
broadband Internet service for $20 per 30 days... which we feel is pretty good value.
Footnote (19/03/2012):
As of today (19/03/2012), Telstra has on offer the "Turbo 3G Modem" (550kbps 3Mbps) at AUS$59, the "Elite 3G
Modem" (550kbps 8Mbps) at
AUS$79, and the "USB 4G
Modem" (up to twice as fast as 3G modems in capital cities and selected
regional areas) at AUS$129.
In areas not currently covered by the 4G network, the 4G modem reverts back to the
3G network and 3G speeds.
Also, their pricing rates currently include an option for a
recharge amount of AUS$150 which
provides a data
allowance of 10 GB having an expiry of 365 days. This equates
to 1.47 cents per MB. We have now been using this option for 15 months and
find the 10 GB allowance far exceeds our needs, but the unused allowance is
rolled over when we recharge. Effectively, we have a relatively high speed broadband Internet connection for AUS $12.50
per month... which we feel is even
better value.
Tight wheelnuts:
A member recently had the tyres on his car replaced at a prominent' tyre outlet
in Fyshwick. The following morning the (cold) tyre pressures were 38 psi
all round (should have been 29 psi front, 26 psi
rear). The car manufacturer specifies the wheel nut torque at
90 newton metres. The actual
torque on all the wheel nuts was greater than
160 newton metres (maximum on the member's torque wrench), and it
would have been impossible to remove the wheel nuts on the roadside with the
tools normally carried for that purpose. Over stressing of the wheel nut
studs was also quite likely.
On raising these matters with the tyre supplier, the response was less than convincing. The moral of the
story is to ensure you will get professional service before deciding who will
work on your car (or A'van), and try to slacken
the wheelnuts as soon as you get home rather than finding out that
you cannot remove them when you have a puncture on the roadside.
A'van Al-Ko wheel alignment:
Al-Ko (manufacturers of the suspension
on A'vans) advise that if re-alignment is necessary, the whole assembly has to be removed from the A'van and returned to one of
its Service Agents (see listing below) the for re-building.
If the suspension is still under warranty the re-build will be free but the owner will have to pay delivery costs to &
from the agent. If out of warranty, the owner will also have
to pay the re-build costs which amount to many hundreds of dollars.
Owner experience is that some A'van dealers are
prepared to negotiate with Al-Ko over costs for warranty units.
Eddie Houghton (2611) tells us that
Canberra Truck Align in Queenbeyan
can re-align the suspension in-situ
and at considerably less cost than
having it re-built. The difference is that parts of the suspension are
re-aligned using hydraulic jacks
instead of using shims as in a re-build. The choice is yours!
AL-KO Service Agent Listing
We have been advised that AL-KO
(manufacturers of the electric brakes/hubs and suspension system fitted to most
A'vans) have closed their service section at Hallam and have provided a one page
list (as below) of some of the recommended service centres in some states - no
doubt other accredited service people also exist.
The major Australia wide recommendation appears to be ABS Stores, which are located in
most capital cities and major towns.
State |
Town/Suburb |
Company |
Address |
Phone |
Agent/Contact |
All States |
--- |
ABS Stores |
Nearest Store |
132-271 |
--- |
NSW |
Albury, 2640 |
Albury Brake & Clutch Centre |
288 Kiewa St |
(02) 6041-4733 |
--- |
NSW |
Albury, 2640 |
Murray Fab Engineering |
234 North Road |
(02) 6041-4688 |
--- |
NSW |
Griffith, 2680 |
MIA Caravans & Trailers |
74 Willandra Ave |
(02) 6964-2611 |
Jayco |
NT |
Winnellie, 0820 |
Darwin & Winnellie Brake Centre |
31 Winnellie Rd |
(08) 8947-0069 |
(Mark) |
NT |
Winnellie, 0820 |
We'reabout Engineering |
Lot 1732, Mataram St |
(08) 8947-3088 |
(Darren) |
NT |
Stuart Park, 0820 |
Muffler City |
26 Stuart Highway |
(08) 8981-4406 |
(Bob) |
NT |
Katherine, 0850 |
Neil Engineering |
Gorge Rd, The Rocks |
(08) 8972-1241 |
(Noel) |
SA |
Cavan, 5094 |
SA Trailers & Chassis Equip |
136 Port Wakefield Rd |
(08) 8262-7170 |
--- |
SA |
Holden Hill, 5088 |
Electric Brake Specialists |
14 Braeside Ave |
(08) 8263-0733 |
--- |
SA |
Port Augusta |
Mike's Mobile Repairs |
(Mobile) |
(08) 8641-1010 |
--- |
TAS |
Glenorchy, 7010 |
Auto Brake Service Tas |
17 Farley St |
(03) 6273-1744 |
--- |
TAS |
Moonah, 7009 |
King Trailer Industries P/L |
5-9 Florence St |
(03) 6228-0317 |
--- |
TAS |
Somerset, 7322 |
Austins Caravans & Trailers |
Bass Highway |
(03) 6435-2643 |
A'van |
VIC |
Bairnsdale, 3875 |
John Anderson's Caravans |
481-483 Princes Highway |
(03) 5152-2510 |
Repairs/Service |
VIC |
Ballarat, 3350 |
John & Catherine Davis Great Outdoors |
217-231 Learmouth Rd |
(03) 5339-3072 |
--- |
VIC |
Bayswater, 3153 |
Hardings Caravan Services P/L |
6 The Nook |
(03) 9729-8477 |
--- |
VIC |
Campbellfield, 3061 |
Able Caravan Repairs |
Fact 2, 281 Rex Road |
(03) 9303-9677 |
--- |
VIC |
Cobram, 3644 |
Peter Ennals Cobram Caravans |
Broadway Street |
(03) 5872-2333 |
Regal/Compass/Colt |
VIC |
Hamilton, 3300 |
Albie Tully & Son |
129-131 French St |
(03) 5572-1353 |
--- |
VIC |
Metropolitan Melbourne |
Max Evans (Fits Brake Controllers) |
Mobile |
0408-398-558 |
--- |
VIC |
Richmond, 3121 |
Richmond Brake & Clutch |
Swan Street |
(03) 9429-3155 |
--- |
VIC |
Thomastown, 3074 |
D & I Caravans Maintenance |
52-54 Commercial Drive |
(03) 9465-6122 |
(Dale) |
VIC |
Wodonga, 3690 |
Wodonga Brake & Clutch |
193 Melbourne Rd |
(02) 6024-7155 |
--- |
WA |
Bayswater, 6053 |
Trailer Parts P/L |
4 Katanning St |
(08) 9279-5777 |
--- |
WA |
Belmont, 6104 |
Ken Peachey Caravans |
194 Campbell Street |
(08) 9277-1381 |
--- |
WA |
Maddington, 6109 |
Advance Caravan Repairs & Hire |
37 Eva Street |
(08) 9493-2771 |
Jayco |
WA |
Osborne Park, 6017 |
Coromal Caravans |
7 Walters Drive |
(08) 9445-1911 |
--- |
WA |
Welshpool, 6106 |
Caravan Parts/Camec WA |
129 Welshpool Rd |
(08) 9350-5898 |
--- |
A'van wheel bearing adjustment:
A'vans are fitted with AL-KO electric
braked axles in which the bearing hub is not a separate item but is an integral part of the brake drum. AL-KO
recommend brakes and bearings be inspected by an AL-KO Agent every 10,000 Km or at 12 month intervals. Grease
stains on the wheel often are an indication of incorrect adjustment or impending
failure.
The following note on wheel bearing
adjustment (attributed to Lockheed) may be of interest:
"Wheel bearings must neither be too slack nor
too tight. Either condition results in excessive wear leading
to premature failure. Inspect the cones and rollers for pitting and/or
wear (if so, replace), repack the bearing with a
high temperature bearing grease before replacing the drum/hub on the
axle spindle.
Pre-load the spindle nut to a torque or 40 N-m,
then back off the nut 180 degrees, then forward 90 degrees. Fit
a new cotter pin in the nut slot nearest to the spindle hole. Check that
no looseness can be felt by gripping
and rocking the drum top to bottom. If looseness can be felt, tighten nut to the next slot and repeat until
no looseness can be felt. Re-fit wheel to drum and repeat the looseness
check by gripping and rocking the wheel top to bottom. If looseness can
be felt under this condition, remove wheel and tighten nut again to the next
slot. Repeat as necessary. Road test and repeat the looseness check after (say) 100 Km."
Wheel bearings are generally very reliable,
particularly if serviced regularly as recommended. However, bearings have
been known to fail catastrophically. Carrying a spare set of bearings and a grease seal can mean you are
either able to fix it yourself or they can be given to a local mechanic for
fixing. Either way you are back on the
road again a lot quicker than otherwise! If you are really
paranoid, consider carrying a spare drum c/w
grease packed bearings which can be interchanged with the failed unit
very quickly at the roadside. (A replacement drum with bearings cost
around $110) When buying spare bearings or a drum, it is suggested your
existing unit is taken as a sample to
ensure the spares are interchangeable. From experience, it appears
bearings fitted to A'vans are not always identical.
A'van Levelling Aid:
If you are particularly sensitive to your A'van
not being level from side to side (some travelling companions are
known to be obsessive about this), A'vanner Richard Giblin (2550) has come up with a solution which makes
leveling the A'van side to side particularly easy.
A bob weight hanging from the centre
of the towel rail and a couple of marks directly under each other on the
bulkhead is all that it takes. By watching the bob weight and marks
through the rear window, move the vehicle to align the bob weight and the marks.
Simple solutions are always the best!
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Neat cross levelling indicator
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Extension Cord Coupling:
Extension cords are a necessary evil
at caravan parks. It doesn't matter how long the cable is on your A'van,
there will be occasions where it is just not long enough. Using an
extension cord seems to be the answer ...but this too is not without problems.
The connection can be inadvertently separated when walking past, leaving
you without mains power to your A'van, or even worse, starting a grass fire if
the disconnection is not total. If it is raining, water can find it's
way between the pins which is likely to trip off the power.
The solution is to physically lock
together the interconnection, and to weatherproof the joint. The Clipsal 437PR/SR (available from electrical
wholesalers), when properly fitted, provides such protection. The 437PR (plug ring) is fitted to the van cord
plug, and the 437SR (socket ring) to
the cord socket. For those van parks having newer power outlets, the
437PR will screw directly to those outlets providing a firmer mechanical
connection than when relying on the plug pins alone.
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Clipsal 437PR/SR weatherproof threaded coupling
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The yellow HPM D107 Cord Safety Lock,
readily available from outlets such as Bunnings, does physically lock together
the coupling but it is not weatherproof. If you are using one of these,
wrapping a plastic bag around the joint is better than nothing.
Last update 24th July 2024
Website URL "actavanning.org/index.html"
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Disclaimer: The views expressed are those of the
author, and are not necessarily
those of any other organisation
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